* A manufacturing issue popped up and I have temporarily taken down the jigs until I come up with a fix plan.  Basically the drill bushings were installed in the wrong order.  Please standby, thank for your patience.


New and improved!  The 1911 Ejector Drill Jig is the only way to go when drilling your 80% frame for the ejector leg holes and installing a new ejector without a cross pin hole. The jig slides over mil-spec rails on all size 1911 frames, and has enough room for oversized gunsmith install ejectors. One jig, two functions for worry free drilling! The new improved jig has two hardened drill bushings that will locate your frame holes for the ejector within +/ .002" of each other per the original 1911 mil-spec blueprints. The bushings are sized at 0.125" (1/8") and 0.098" (#40 drill). The top of the jig has an arrow pointing towards the muzzle to ensure your holes are drilled in the correct orientation, and the jig itself is then held down with two brass tip set screws preventing you from marring your frame. Although the jig will locate the frame ejector leg holes extremely accurate in relation to each other and the left side of the frame, the jig will NOT inherently locate the distance from takedown pin location per the original blueprints and you must locate and mark that location on your own. Once you're done drilling your frame holes, remove the jig and turn it around with the second arrow pointing forward towards the muzzle in order to drill the cross pin in your ejector leg if it’s not already done. Two brass tipped set screws hold the ejector in place on its centerline preventing marring of the ejector, and counteracts ejector lift while drilling the cross-pin hole on the ejector leg from clockwise rotation of the drill bit. The small cutout on both sides allow room for spot drills or centerdrills for drilling of the new cross pin hole through the ejector leg. Added bonus third use! The new improved jig also serves as a secure way to hold your frame by the rails for all that beautiful contouring, grip, trigger well, magwell, and engraving work! Just attach the jig to the frame, tighten the setscrews, and then clamp the jig into your vise to expose 90% of the frame for further gunsmithing. We spent a lot of time trying to make this jig completely brainless, just slap it on and go. The realities of tolerancing, jig real estate, and peoples handiwork makes it pretty difficult to accomplish a 100% solution. Knowledge is power, and we want to ensure you know what this jig will NOT do for you. 1. Will not locate the first ejector leg hole automatically. You will have to do some layout work, and mark a location to drill the first hole. The first ejector leg hole is located off of the centerline of the take down pin. Then use the jig to drill both holes in perfect relation to each other. 2. Will not drill to a specific depth. You will have to either mark your drill bits to the appropriate depth or use a DRO on a mill or drill press. 3. Will not locate the ejector leg cross pin hole. The original jig was only designed to hold down the ejector, and drill the cross pin through the ejector leg only, not to drill the hole in the frame. 4. Make up for lack of attention to detail or craftsmanship. Recommend 135 degree carbide drill bit for rigid setups or cobalt for drill presses and hand drills. Ream to finish size if possible. Drill bits and reamers are not included. 100% machined in house from 6061-T6 aluminum, made in the USA.


Watch the jigs being machined on a state of the art 5 axis CNC machine in one operation below here.

1911 Ejector Drill Jig

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